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Investigation of the pattern grading...

Schofield, Nancy Ackerman.

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Investigation of the pattern grading assumptions used in the sizing of United States women's clothing for the upper torso.

Record Type:	Language materials, printed : Monograph/item
Title/Author:	Investigation of the pattern grading assumptions used in the sizing of United States women's clothing for the upper torso./
Author:	Schofield, Nancy Ackerman.
Description:	340 p.
Notes:	Adviser: Karen L. LaBat.
Contained By:	Dissertation Abstracts International61-09B.
Subject:	Anthropology, Physical. -
Online resource:	http://pqdd.sinica.edu.tw/twdaoapp/servlet/advanced?query=9986431
ISBN:	0599932627

Investigation of the pattern grading assumptions used in the sizing of United States women's clothing for the upper torso.
Schofield, Nancy Ackerman.

Investigation of the pattern grading assumptions used in the sizing of United States women's clothing for the upper torso. - 340 p.

Adviser: Karen L. LaBat.

Thesis (Ph.D.)--University of Minnesota, 2000.

A fitted bodice pattern was graded using the regression results and was compared to a traditionally graded bodice. There were marked differences in all pattern elements.

ISBN: 0599932627Subjects--Topical Terms:

877524
Anthropology, Physical.

Investigation of the pattern grading assumptions used in the sizing of United States women's clothing for the upper torso.
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100 1 $a Schofield, Nancy Ackerman. $3 1259646
245 1 0 $a Investigation of the pattern grading assumptions used in the sizing of United States women's clothing for the upper torso.
300 $a 340 p.
500 $a Adviser: Karen L. LaBat.
500 $a Source: Dissertation Abstracts International, Volume: 61-09, Section: B, page: 4684.
502 $a Thesis (Ph.D.)--University of Minnesota, 2000.
520 $a A fitted bodice pattern was graded using the regression results and was compared to a traditionally graded bodice. There were marked differences in all pattern elements.
520 $a A total of 32 cases of individual grades from 17 published sources on grading were examined and compared. The four assumptions from sizing were confirmed as part of grading practice and six additional assumptions were identified.
520 $a Sizing charts dating from 1873 through 2000 were examined. The increments between sizes were calculated for each measurement and compared across time. Four assumptions were identified.
520 $a The U.S. women's sizing system for clothing is not meeting the needs of the population. Research on sizing is ongoing. The grading process, used by clothing manufacturers to create garments in range of sizes for production, has not been addressed.
520 $a Grade rules, increments between garment measurements, should be directly related to increments between body measurements for different sizes. The major research questions addressed the relationship of grading to sizing and the basis for both sizing and grading practices. This research focused on patterns and fit for the women's upper torso.
520 $a Measurements used in sizing charts were compared with body landmarks and cardinal points on the garment pattern. Of the 30 measurements, 83% failed the set criteria. Only 7 of 38 (18%) grade rule components needed to grade a bodice could be based on sizing measurement information. In addition, the comparison of grading with sizing showed that grading did not agree with sizing information even when it was available.
520 $a The ten assumptions were tested with regression analysis using the 1988 ANSUR women's data. Join point analysis was used to determine whether more than one value was needed for grade rules across the range of sizes. The ten assumptions could not be supported in their current form.
520 $a This research concluded that the method by which manufactured garments are sized (grading) has little relationship to sizing measurements. Grading is primarily based on the premise that the changes to the measurements of the garment are set increments and proportions. In addition, many elements of the garment pattern were expected to have constant relationships.
590 $a School code: 0130.
650 4 $a Anthropology, Physical. $3 877524
650 4 $a Design and Decorative Arts. $3 1024640
650 4 $a Home Economics. $3 1019236
650 4 $a Women's Studies. $3 1017481
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710 2 0 $a University of Minnesota. $3 676231
773 0 $t Dissertation Abstracts International $g 61-09B.
790 $a 0130
790 1 0 $a LaBat, Karen L., $e advisor
791 $a Ph.D.
792 $a 2000
856 4 0 $u http://pqdd.sinica.edu.tw/twdaoapp/servlet/advanced?query=9986431