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A study of ease distribution in rela...
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Hong Kong Polytechnic University (Hong Kong).
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A study of ease distribution in relation to jacket pattern alteration.
Record Type:
Electronic resources : Monograph/item
Title/Author:
A study of ease distribution in relation to jacket pattern alteration./
Author:
Wang, Zhaohui.
Description:
213 p.
Notes:
Adviser: Edward Newton.
Contained By:
Dissertation Abstracts International69-05B.
Subject:
Textile Technology. -
Online resource:
http://pqdd.sinica.edu.tw/twdaoapp/servlet/advanced?query=3313062
ISBN:
9780549621478
A study of ease distribution in relation to jacket pattern alteration.
Wang, Zhaohui.
A study of ease distribution in relation to jacket pattern alteration.
- 213 p.
Adviser: Edward Newton.
Thesis (Ph.D.)--Hong Kong Polytechnic University (Hong Kong), 2008.
Apparel industry conventionally uses empirical procedures for pattern design and prototype construction, which are time consuming and cost intensive. This research work is dedicated to upgrading the current practice of trial and error approach to engineering design. The researcher attempted to develop an Ease Distribution Model (EDM), so that pattern alteration could be implemented by inserting appropriate ease into the basic sloper at the corresponding positions according to the desired jacket style.
ISBN: 9780549621478Subjects--Topical Terms:
1020710
Textile Technology.
A study of ease distribution in relation to jacket pattern alteration.
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213 p.
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Adviser: Edward Newton.
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Source: Dissertation Abstracts International, Volume: 69-05, Section: B, page: 3252.
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Thesis (Ph.D.)--Hong Kong Polytechnic University (Hong Kong), 2008.
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Apparel industry conventionally uses empirical procedures for pattern design and prototype construction, which are time consuming and cost intensive. This research work is dedicated to upgrading the current practice of trial and error approach to engineering design. The researcher attempted to develop an Ease Distribution Model (EDM), so that pattern alteration could be implemented by inserting appropriate ease into the basic sloper at the corresponding positions according to the desired jacket style.
520
$a
The first step towards modeling ease distribution was the identification of ease allowance at 3D garment shape and 2D garment pattern. Segmental Girth Ease Allowance (SGEA) was newly defined in the current study to facilitate the insertion of ease into the basic sloper during pattern alteration. From the cross-sectional shape of dummy and jacket, it was divided into different portions and their corresponding SGEA were determined. By using the surface fitting approach, the function of the combinations of trigonometry functions of angle and polynomial function of girth measurement was formulated which facilitates prediction on ease distribution. The EDM with single variable of girth measurement was proposed for a given style jacket. The EDM with two variables including two girth measurements was developed to predict the SGEA of various styles. The models were verified by comparing the experimental data with the predicted data. Furthermore, the width and thickness of the cross-section were also investigated, which were related to the jacket silhouette. The effect of fabric properties on the cross-sectional shape was also investigated. The prediction can be enhanced by adding fabric bending rigidity into the model. Based on the distribution of SGEA, pattern alteration could be implemented by effectively adding SGEA into the basic sloper at the corresponding positions. Different SGEA were inserted into the bustline, waistline and hipline instead of the traditional way to add girth ease allowance to the edge of the pattern. SGEA was also added into the armhole by pivoting the bust dart and shoulder dart.
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School code: 1170.
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http://pqdd.sinica.edu.tw/twdaoapp/servlet/advanced?query=3313062
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