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Dynamics of long water waves: Wave-s...

Chan, I-Chi.

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Dynamics of long water waves: Wave-seafloor interactions, waves through a coastal forest, and wave runup.

Record Type:	Electronic resources : Monograph/item
Title/Author:	Dynamics of long water waves: Wave-seafloor interactions, waves through a coastal forest, and wave runup./
Author:	Chan, I-Chi.
Published:	Ann Arbor : ProQuest Dissertations & Theses, : 2011,
Description:	252 p.
Notes:	Source: Dissertations Abstracts International, Volume: 73-10, Section: B.
Contained By:	Dissertations Abstracts International73-10B.
Subject:	Civil engineering. -
Online resource:	https://pqdd.sinica.edu.tw/twdaoapp/servlet/advanced?query=3504650
ISBN:	9781267257642

Dynamics of long water waves: Wave-seafloor interactions, waves through a coastal forest, and wave runup.
Chan, I-Chi.

Dynamics of long water waves: Wave-seafloor interactions, waves through a coastal forest, and wave runup. - Ann Arbor : ProQuest Dissertations & Theses, 2011 - 252 p.

Source: Dissertations Abstracts International, Volume: 73-10, Section: B.

Thesis (Ph.D.)--Cornell University, 2011.

This item is not available from ProQuest Dissertations & Theses.

This dissertation studies three applied topics concerning long-wave dynamics. Interactions between surface waves and a muddy seabed are first investigated. Under the assumption that a seafloor can be modeled as a layer of viscoelastic sediments, a set of depth-integrated equations is derived to describe the propagation of long waves under the effects of seabed conditions. Dynamic responses of a viscoplastic mud bed subject to a surface solitary wave are also studied. Surface waves can be attenuated considerably due to the presence of a muddy seabed. Features of wave-induced mud motions depend largely on the rheology of bottom sediments. Theoretical predictions are tested against available experimental data. A good agreement is observed. Next, a theory is developed to study the effects of emergent coastal forests on the propagation of long surface waves of small amplitudes. The forest is idealized by a periodic array of rigid cylinders. Parameterized models are employed to simulate turbulence and to represent bed friction. A multi-scale analysis is carried out to deduce the averaged equations on the wavelength-scale, with the effective coefficients calculated by numerically solving the flow problem in a unit cell surrounding one or several cylinders. Analytical and numerical solutions for the wave attenuation are presented. Comparisons with laboratory data show very good agreements for both periodic and transient incident waves. Finally, the last topic concerns mainly the runup of leading tsunami waves. Lagrangian long-wave equations are derived to help accurately track the moving shoreline. A series of numerical experiments reveals that the front-profiles of leading tsunami waves dominate the runup processes while the back-profiles are influential for the rundown flows. For a leading elevation wave, stronger acceleration of the wave front results in higher maximum runup height. As far as the maximum runup height is concerned, it is sufficient to consider only the accelerating phase of the main tsunami wave. It is concluded that solitary wave is not a perfect modeling wave for tsunami research. Directly applying the runup rule of solitary wave to tsunami runup can lead to a very inaccurate estimation.

ISBN: 9781267257642Subjects--Topical Terms:

860360
Civil engineering.
Subjects--Index Terms:

Long water waves

Dynamics of long water waves: Wave-seafloor interactions, waves through a coastal forest, and wave runup.
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100 1 $a Chan, I-Chi. $3 3558642
245 1 0 $a Dynamics of long water waves: Wave-seafloor interactions, waves through a coastal forest, and wave runup.
260 1 $a Ann Arbor : $b ProQuest Dissertations & Theses, $c 2011
300 $a 252 p.
500 $a Source: Dissertations Abstracts International, Volume: 73-10, Section: B.
500 $a Publisher info.: Dissertation/Thesis.
500 $a Advisor: Liu, Philip Li-Fan.
502 $a Thesis (Ph.D.)--Cornell University, 2011.
506 $a This item is not available from ProQuest Dissertations & Theses.
506 $a This item must not be added to any third party search indexes.
506 $a This item must not be sold to any third party vendors.
520 $a This dissertation studies three applied topics concerning long-wave dynamics. Interactions between surface waves and a muddy seabed are first investigated. Under the assumption that a seafloor can be modeled as a layer of viscoelastic sediments, a set of depth-integrated equations is derived to describe the propagation of long waves under the effects of seabed conditions. Dynamic responses of a viscoplastic mud bed subject to a surface solitary wave are also studied. Surface waves can be attenuated considerably due to the presence of a muddy seabed. Features of wave-induced mud motions depend largely on the rheology of bottom sediments. Theoretical predictions are tested against available experimental data. A good agreement is observed. Next, a theory is developed to study the effects of emergent coastal forests on the propagation of long surface waves of small amplitudes. The forest is idealized by a periodic array of rigid cylinders. Parameterized models are employed to simulate turbulence and to represent bed friction. A multi-scale analysis is carried out to deduce the averaged equations on the wavelength-scale, with the effective coefficients calculated by numerically solving the flow problem in a unit cell surrounding one or several cylinders. Analytical and numerical solutions for the wave attenuation are presented. Comparisons with laboratory data show very good agreements for both periodic and transient incident waves. Finally, the last topic concerns mainly the runup of leading tsunami waves. Lagrangian long-wave equations are derived to help accurately track the moving shoreline. A series of numerical experiments reveals that the front-profiles of leading tsunami waves dominate the runup processes while the back-profiles are influential for the rundown flows. For a leading elevation wave, stronger acceleration of the wave front results in higher maximum runup height. As far as the maximum runup height is concerned, it is sufficient to consider only the accelerating phase of the main tsunami wave. It is concluded that solitary wave is not a perfect modeling wave for tsunami research. Directly applying the runup rule of solitary wave to tsunami runup can lead to a very inaccurate estimation.
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650 4 $a Ocean engineering. $3 660731
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653 $a Wave-seafloor interactions
653 $a Waves through a coastal forest
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710 2 $a Cornell University. $3 530586
773 0 $t Dissertations Abstracts International $g 73-10B.
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